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Can you explain what is the actual result when doubling the developer? As in high lifts when using double 30vol. or 40vol.? Also, you've mentioned using the high lifts with double 20vol.

I've read recently where a colorist used a permanent color with double 20vol. What results would this get, and is it even okay to do that?

Thanks for any insights.

By the way, are you teaching a color class in Chicago in October?


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I have only heard of double 40 vol for high lift colors. That means 1 oz color and 2 oz 40 vol.
Hi Sara,
You can use double 30vol., too, with high lifts. I'm just trying to understand the reasoning, or the "why" behind it.
I am in Chicago in October! I don't know exactly where yet. I think Marlo knows.
The double developers is interesting...It give the product more power.
When mixing equal parts ... the developer is diluted. For example...6% (20volume) mixed equal parts with color = 3%
The reason we double it is so we have enough oxygen for it to keep working. It is our power behind the color...It is our timing...
Double developer works well with high lifts because it is a higher ammonia content.
Double 20 still has power for lifting and does not destroy the tone we can use for a nice even deposit for a high lift tint. It is so beautiful. It would give you about three to four levels of lift depending on the texture type and density of the hair.
Double 30 volume gives more lift but eats up some of the tone we are counting on for deposition.
Double 40 volume give the most lift but leaves almost nothing to deposit.

whew. how was that?
Thanks Lupe. Great explanation, esp. with knowing that it's giving the formula more oxygen.
Can you use double 20 for regular permanent color? And what would the results be?
I'm hoping to see you for class in Oct.
I don't know the exact science for it, but I know when I have someone who has a really resistant area I have used a little more than the 1 to 1 so I have some extra developer in there. I think it helps to get that resistant cuticle open. I have also done the reverse where it is more color than the 1 to 1. This was a couple years ago and can't really remember why it made sense at the time.

if i use a 7/2 with double 20v in Koleston on virgin level 3 fine hair, do you think i could get a nice warm level 5 or 6?

Thanks for all the responses. It all makes so much more sense now.
i love hearing someone say that 40 volume destroys tone

thank you
Totally... Not anything left for reflection.
I never knew this about double 20v...interesting....
Try is so beautiful.
Anita, I am in Chicago in October. The 24th.

When you double the developer it give more oxygen for the color to process longer. That is why if the color isn't light enough, you can leave it on longer as long as the color is moist it is working.
It also dilutes the ammonia content. So if you are using double developer and you have a low ammonia content can interrupt the lift.
I love double 20 volume with our shades of Enlightenment. The lower the developer the more tone is left in the hair to deposit. You actually see tone...Love it on previously colored hair level 6-9. Favorite formula for a beige...Twilight and Daylight + double 20 volume.On virgin hair, too.
30 and 40 volume can east away tones you are counting on for deposition and give you a warm result.
Shades of Enlightenment ammonia content is 1.5%
Shade 12N from Full Spectrum Deep is 1.5% ... we use 20 Volume with Deep.

Try'll love it!


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