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If you have an opinion about a particular pair of scissors, give everyone the details...

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I had looked at the Hikari website and that's how I discovered that my shears were out of adjustment. I adjusted them, and they worked fine for quite awhile. I will contact Brent and see if he can do anything for me. I do have an inexpensive pair of Rock It  Dog shears by Centrix  that I picked up - and actually they work pretty good considering what I paid for them. It's a good thing too because I have been using them more and more.

Thanks for your help.

of course! we all here to help each other. Happy New Year!

Anyone use Washi shears? I have been researching shears for weeks now, and they have a pair which I'd love to have, but I don't know anyone who owns a pair.

I love Washi shears. I've used several pairs and prefer them over the other companies I've tried. They're super smooth and they have great customer service :) I have the Black Velvet Master, Green Vibe Swivel & some blending shears. Hope that helps

That's interesting that out of all shears that are on the market , that your response would be , Washi shears. Does anyone know where the Washi shears are manufactured.
Times have changed. I remember that cutters also thought that "ice shears", were also great shears.
Thanks for your opinion. I may have to give them another look.

I can't offer a specific brand recommendation, but I can offer some tips on selecting a quality shear.  By way of fair disclosure, I'm not a stylist.  My son is.  I'm just one who researches before spending big money, so I came up with this list to help him.  In the hope it will be of help to someone else too, here it is.  Long post warning...


  • The material matters… a lot.
    • Japanese stainless steel with a Rockwell hardness of at least 56, aka 440c = high value for the money. Look closely – shears with “Japanese steel” are not the same as “Japanese stainless steel.”
    • Molybdenum alloy = great shears, strong, durable
    • A molybdenum/cobalt alloy = great shears, maximum durability, high strength
    • Titanium does not generally add hardness but MAY help provide outer-layer protection.
  • Forged rather than cast is a must in a quality shear.
  • Look for convex edges and hollow-ground blades.
  • The tension should be easily adjustable.
  • Look for two-piece construction rather than four. The handle to the blade should be one continuous piece.
  • Teflon, rylon, nylon (or something similar) at the pivot point makes for a smoother glide, but will usually add cost. Nice but not absolutely essential.
  • Offset handles - rather than opposing - generally add comfort (although this is a matter of preference). Some people also like crane handles – again, a matter of preference.
  • Thumb types are your preference:  anatomic, rotating, standard, cutaway.
  • Permanent or removable pinky rests (tangs) are a matter of preference.
  • Be wary of shears made in Pakistan, China, Taiwan. A shear made of “Japanese steel” does not ensure they are actually produced in Japan.
  • The shears must be comfortable to you and your cutting style. Finger inserts may help.
  • A lifetime warranty should be included.
  • If you’re buying more than one pair, ask for a discount and free shipping.
  • If you order online, make sure there is a 30-day money-back guarantee in case the shears aren’t what you expected. Watch out for “restocking fees” or exchange-only policies.
  • A quality shear that meets all of these criteria generally starts around $200 and can run into the thousands. Stylists will ultimately make this decision for themselves, but you can get a very nice pair of shears without spending a fortune.
  • In the $200 range, your shears should come with a case, oil, and finger-sizing inserts.
  • Shears meeting these criteria will usually last many years and can be sharpened many times before they must be replaced. Cheaper shears will save money in the short run but will need more frequent sharpening and replacement.


So there you have it... my two cents worth. 

Nice job, Rhonda!

Very interesting information. I haven't found a website that will tell you all this information online. I suppose I would need to email them directly to find out some of these things. I've just looked at 4 different websites, and not one of them states if they are Japanese stainless steel. They do say they are 440c or give a number of Rockwell hardness, so perhaps they feel that covers it.

Thanks for sharing that Rhonda. It's good information to have when researching shears.

What's the difference between a convex and a semi-convex edge? Different uses maybe?

Here's what I think...  convex edges are very sharp with an angle of 45-50 degrees. They are usually used on wet hair, for slide cutting, and for point cutting. Beveled edges are an older style originating in Germany that are sharpened at a 30-35 degree angle. Some people like beveled edges for dry cutting, but many now use exclusively convex. Semi-convex edges are between convex and bevel with an angle of 40-45 degrees.

Again, I'm not a stylist, so I hope others with way more knowledge and experience will chime in here.  My feeling is that convex is the way to go unless you're one who likes an arsenal of shears, each with their own special purpose... and I don't know what the specific purpose of a semi-convex is.  I've also read that they can be tricky to have sharpened back to their original angle and sometimes end up being more beveled.

BTW, there is also a custom edge that is some sort of combination, but I don't really understand how that works, so I'll just mention it then leave it alone.

Hope this helps.



Hey Rhonda, 

are you counting your degrees form the top down or bottom up?

I'd love to sound all smart here, but I haven't got a clue from which direction the angles are measured.  I was pretty happy with myself for just knowing there were varying degrees to the angles.  LOL!  Thanks for joining the discussion.  With your stylist/sharpener experience, I'll get to learn something new.


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