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Had this discussion today about what is the better/proper way to do root color along with highlights in the salon.

What does everyone here do when your client wants there color done and highlights in the same day? Im not a big fan of doing highlights and then putting my root color in between the foils because I think sometimes the color can leek into the foils and also that the color sometimes doesn't get the proper processing time if the foils are ready to come out, happens a lot to me when using a high lift blond color that need 50 mins to process and the foils need to be taking out.

So my question is, is it better to do the clients color first and then rinse off and then do the highlights?

Or would that mean to much double processing? I was speaking to an older hairdresser and he said that back in the day that's what they would do.

 

-feedback/help/opinions appreciated 

thanks :)  

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Had this discussion today about what is the better/proper way to do root color along with highlights in the salon.

What does everyone here do when your client wants there color done and highlights in the same day? Im not a big fan of doing highlights and then putting my root color in between the foils because I think sometimes the color can leek into the foils

Hi Anthony, good question...

The color won't leak into the foils if you clip them up so that they are away from the head at 90 degrees. 

and also that the color sometimes doesn't get the proper processing time if the foils are ready to come out, happens a lot to me when using a high lift blond color that need 50 mins to process and the foils need to be taking out.

If your foils are ready to come out you can take the product off by opening each package in turn (I usually begin foil-weaves at the front hairline so that the front is lighter than the underneath, like in nature, the underneath hair gets less exposure) and put a towel under the section and use a water spray-bottle to spray the section and wipe off the product, then spray it with a low Ph spray to completely stop the chemical action...Keep the sections moist witrh water or Ph spray and they will be fine, just don't allow them to dry-out before you wash it all off and condition...

Also you can use color accelerator in your tint, I like 'Color Express', it doesn't require heat and it reduces the processing time in half.

So my question is, is it better to do the clients color first and then rinse off and then do the highlights?

OK, here's the thing...If you want really translucent light blonde hilights but the color of the regrowth retouch is a darker shade, e.g. a level 4...if you do them together it's possible that when you rinse and wash it all off, that some of the dark tint will 'wash-through' the blonde hilights, (this is particularly true when using bleach to lift the hilights, they are more porous) and will 'tone' your hilights a bit.

This is not always a bad thing actually, as long as the retouch tint isn't an ash shade which will tend to discolor your hilights, possibly a greenish tone.

Or would that mean to much double processing?

That's not really double-processing...Remember though that tint won't lift tint, so if you do the regrowth-retouch first, then process and wash, you'll have to use bleach to then lighten the strands in the foil. I do it that way sometimes too, either way works just fine.

I was speaking to an older hairdresser and he said that back in the day that's what they would do.

Yes, we dinosaurs have our tricks.

Good luck!

Our salon offers a service called Combo Color-it's where we apply base (root) color first and then lay highlights or lowlights in after. The color slightly overlaps but it gives a great blended effect. We process all our color at room temp w/o a dryer so there is no bleeding or swelling. If the clients wants a very light/pale blonde with a dark overall base, we will apply highlights first and then lay base in between as we go. Usually a combo is only 12 - 20 highlights/foils so it's easy to process and keep it focused mostly in front and thru crown. I have been doing this process for years and it really saves the hair from dying it dark first and then adding highlights in a double process. Plus it saves time for the client. Oh, and on the first time application you can use highlift but all subsequent visits you have to use lightener because the hair has been tinted. I stager the volumes depending on how light or dark I want the highlights. You can either tone or color refresh after if needed.

At our salon, the base color plus highlights is our bread and butter! Our application time for this service is an hour. With a half hour process time and half hour finish, they are in and out with healthy gorgeous hair in two hours or less. We do both foils-before-base and base-before-foils methods. 


Base first: Use this method when using your high-lift tint or when working with grey coverage...or...all the time!

Apply your retouch color like normal. Then, highlight (bleach only) and lowlight like normal. Your comb will get messy and you will need to keep your gloves on. Make sure that at the top of your foil where your highlight meets the base color you saturate all the way through with bleach. The bleach will "eat" the base color and lift out evenly with the rest of the strand. Be careful at the seam of the lowlight and base color as well. You don't want to melt and drag the base color down from the root into the mid shaft of the lowlight. There should not be any bleads with this method-especially if you don't over-saturate and you start from the bottom of the head and work up towards the top, thus illiminating the need to move your foils around or clip them out of the way after you have placed them. They should just hang at natural fall. The "goopy-ness" of the base color will help them to stay in place-so much so that you don't need to fold them as many times if you don't want. You could, infact, just sandwich your highlights by laying another foil on top. You will find that you need far less foils than the traditional highlight and if it takes you longer than an hour to apply this service, you will want to start with a lower volume of bleach and finish with the next highest volume. If you have decent water pressure, you should be able to take out and rinse the entire head at the same time.  


Does this help? Try it on a mannequin or close friend first. I will explain how we do foils before base color as well if you are interested. Good luck and have a great day!

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