Oil lightner vs. powdered

I'm teaching a class tomorrow for my salon and I have a question;

Why would you use oil lightner vs a powdered lightener?

I have used both. I currently use a powdered lightener. (wella's blondor or vero blue)

I'm feeling the answer is that the oil will help keep the moisture in the hair.But not sure if the answer is that simple.

I've researched it a bit but cannot fin d a stronger answer to her question. Does anyone else have any better reasoning? Or is it just preference??

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Permalink Reply by Mary Petillo on May 20, 2012 at 6:13pm

I am reading this post one month too late to help with your class, but choosing oil lightener will control the speed of the lightening process since it works slower than powder lightener. The oil lightener will also be less drying and the slower bleaching process maintains the integrity of the cuticle (as much as possible.)

With foil highlights- powder lighteners are quicker but this extra speed is not a good thing if your technique is slow. Either the hair will over process or you have to stop and remove the product once it reaches the desired level of lightness. Lowering volume of peroxide will slow the process as well.

Controlling the speed of lightening is important when the client has fine hair (lightens faster), curly hair (lightens faster) and/or is a natural blond or light brown with already compromised porosity.

Also, slightly off topic but I always use a white powdered lightener rather than a blue or violet since the toned products can mask the exposed undertones and fool you into removing the lightener too soon. I contacted 4-5 professional powder bleach manufacturers and they all said the blue or violet tone in their bleach had NO toning ability. So why use it if it is only a distraction, especially for the less experienced colorists?

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Permalink Reply by Philip Ring on May 22, 2012 at 1:06am

Well I always thought it was because most people over process their blondes anyway, so when you look in your foils and it looks done... But then you wash it out and it's brassy, all you have to do is out a toner over it to make it look white. After all if you're using a white lightened and the hair looks white, it's probably white. That pale yellow that you can tone to platinum with a v/b is the only healthy platinum to my knowledge

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Permalink Reply by Mary Petillo on May 22, 2012 at 1:21am

That is my point. You cannot tone brassy tones into platinum. This is especially a problem if highlighting- since once the foils are pulled you cannot continue to lighten to that pale yellow which can be toned to a healthy platinum.

White powder lightener shows the true tones of the underlying pigment as they develop, easier even for the less experienced colorist. The real issue is understanding the necessary and appropriate amount of undertones to leave in the hair to support the final desired level and shade.