The Online home of Craft-Hairdressing since 2009

Having working in NY for 12 years and studied with the industry's best this was a service unheard of until I moved to FL. I would like to hear from those who do this service and what you feel are the pros and cons of it.

From where I came fromt he thought has always been, if you are going to mix the same amount of color, apply it the same way as a regulkar single proces service why would you cut the timing, cut the price and produce a brassy effect?

It has always been my philosophy to create a color using 10 or 15 vol dev and using cool tones produce a truly soft result doing a full permanent color service that would actually be 1/2 to 1 level lighter than thier natural.

Here in south florida we see a level 7 or 8 placed on teh regrowth for 5 minutes producing a slightly lighter brassy result-this is called base break or bass soften.

Please share your experience and philosophies of this service.

Views: 3796

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

I Free-Base
why would you waste time with a stement like that?
What you've never heard of that before? It's the latest technique coming out of Prague. God, what a noob.
Oh yeah, WTF is a stement? Is it like a strong-hold gel?
With the risk of sounded uninformed...base breaking is something that we do to acheive a "softer" base to perform highlights and low lights with a more "natural" effect. You are absolutely right in thinking that this effect can and will result in a brassy or warmer base color....this is usually related to the color manufacturer that we are working with. Dont under estimate the power of great results of acheiving this though, it can, and will make the differance between a level 8 and level 9 soft nuetral, beige, base color with high lights and low lights that can look incredible.

The most important thing with color deposit is timing, don't be afraid to leave it on longer then the manufacturers guidelines. Timing of trying to do it faster with better results, rarely works out.

Let it process accordingly and then proceed to the special effects that you are looking for...even if it demands that you charge more for your time and knowledge!
BRavo, to all you non-base breakers. and thanks for responding. I agree with you al and was traiined as such. I have taken many Beth Minardo seminars and know her personally. She feels why mess up pigment if you dont need to. I am a religous fan of her, and of a tradional single process without trying to save time.

Yes, with the right formula yo can achieve a soft base witout undertiming and without releasing the NRP demon.

Never been a fan of the orange root with 5000 foils to cover it.
Keep posting. I will keep posing differnet discussions.

I am a color director at Pyure Aveda in FL and we hold education every week. We have an advanced group of kickass colorists.

Color On!
Personally, I don't care for the effect base breaking (or as it is euphemistically called Color Shifting) creates on most guests that the technique is used on (lvl 3-5 hair with brighter highlights) and I would go so far as to say it is mostly a phenomenon found in the south as many colorists I speak with north of Texas look at me strangely when I mention this service.

I would, however, like to add that most base breaking services I have seen offered at various salons rarely include an all-over application; in fact, most colorists offering this service only color 1/2 inch on either side of the part back to the growth swirl pattern and perhaps along the facial hairline, leaving the product on 5--no more than 10--minutes and only as a one-time in-between foil service. Further, this is done using a formulation of high-lift color designed with this service in mind.

Permanent color really isn't designed for that kind of shortened service as most permanent color lines start off by lifting with little deposit during the first part of processing and end by depositing tone with little lifting in the latter portion. With that in mind, almost no tonality would be deposited in a 5 minute process when 20-45 minutes is recommended for processing, depending on the manufacturer.

The result of this high-lift service (again, in my personal opinion) is often too loaded with the residual cooler tones that would normally be oxidized out of the color during normal processing, leaving a blue-ish/violet-ish tint to the treated hair. I don't care for that result, so I haven't embraced that process, but would like to add that I know many, many colorists that have used this technique and have a devout following of guests that rely on this in-between service and swear by it. In the end, I think it is a matter of personal preference, like so many things in the nebulous world of color.
i think there is a reason you didn't see it until you moved to florida, it is not done in most other parts of the world.

but, if it works for you color on my friend!
I agree with you in that I have a difficult time seeing the virtue in this type of service. To me personally, if you are going to go through the trouble of 'coloring hair' whether you are 'shifting' the natural remaining pigment or not, you would want to maintain the integrity of the product being utilized. No manufacturing company that I know of recommends utilizing a color product for 5 out of 30 - 45 minutes of the recommended processing time. In my personal experiences in observing this technique the results that I have seen have been brassy, uneven and unpredictable and I have seen it utilized more as a non-traditional way to attempt going for a lighter effect than was formulated. My personal choice would be to apply a level 8 or 9 on the base (hair not in the foils) with the appropriate developer and process completely to ensure even and predictable tones, even if you are lifting from a level 7. In all honesty how often is that the case? Typically from what I see it's because the base color is too dark to begin with levels 4-6, and the stylist wants to 'convince' the eye of the client that they are really a blonde, my question to stylists who do this, why go through all the trouble of going through the service if 1- aren't going to charge full price for it, and 2- you would have such a beautiful result if you processed that color for the full time? I call the service a partial or full foil with color, and it works at any level of haircolor to add dimension (or to cover grey ), I use it with level 4 with level 6 highlights, or level 8 with high lift blonde highlights, or any number of variations, but I get paid appropriately and my guests love their hair, and that last bit my friends is the one thing in this industry that matters. And as someone who has been in the industry for 25 years at many different levels, color is color and is only limited by your imagination, if it works for you and you get the result you want and everyone is happy then formulate however you like, boxes were made to be broken out of.


© 2015   Created by Hb Official.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service